The Art of Misadventure

Kim's travel blog

Tag: Trans-Mongolian

LON to BKK 2008 (Remastered 2012)

With planing well underway for my 2015 trip and a new web site under construction it seemed like a good time to revisit my trip from London to Thailand back in 2008. As this new site will be the home for all future travels it only seems right that it should be the home for my old ones too. I have copied my old blog here post by post with some spelling and grammar correction as well as some additional photos.

You can use the map below to follow my overland trip to Thailand in 2008 and navigate between posts.

    LON to BKK – UB to Beijing and on to Shanghai

    Train from UB to Beijing was a 1 day 1 night  affair with a not too painful 5 hour border crossing in to China. I was sharing with a farther and daughter who were travelling to buy rubber and zips for there army book company and a man with boxes full of sample plastic bottles. On day one we passed through the Gobi desert and awoke the following day to more hilly landscape of northern china (a little late to see the wall).

    We pulled into Beijing just after lunch, after checking in a had walk around town and went to buy my next train ticket. It was a pleasant 20 degrees c and I had a great walk around the busy Market streets where my hostel was located and around the eminence and sanitized T square. First impressions were good and I immediately felt at home. Had a brilliant night out with a load of people from the hosts on the first night, and had a good chilled out day in the hostel the following day. I am now in Shanghai for a few days before I head out into the country side and then back to Beijing

    LON to BKK – Ulaanbaatar

    Just a quick one.

    Ulaanbaatar seams a really cool place and the people seam on face value friendly and welcoming.

    Only managed to get out of the city once which was to the national park north east of the city. I took a one night trip with two girls where we got driven out to the park and stayed with a family in a ger (traditional felt tent) for a night. The land scape was pretty cool and I managed to take a quick walk up to a little col before our horse riding. Our ger was heated by a wood burner which when on heated the ger to 38 degrees c and when off left you shivering. Well as you would expect the fire went out during the night an having gone to bed in my underwear only and with no blanket I woke up at 2am freezing, after bumping around in the pitch black ger I managed to find another bed with a blanket and crawled underneath; waking up half an hour later still just as cold I managed to get my sleeping bag out and and climbed into the bottom of it. On returning from the national park I tired to get train tickets to Beijing for the 2nd of March but could only get one for the 6th, not a huge issue as it gave me a few extra days to shift the cold I had picked up from trying to sleep in a ger at -16 without any clothes or a blanket.

    LON to BKK – Irkutsk to Ulaanbaatar

    Ulaanbaatar mile 5519

    The short journey of 700 miles to Ulaanbaatar some how takes 34 hours, but that is only 2 nights and one day so very manageable compared with my last journey of over 70 hours. The train departed at 20:45 local time so I had the day to cook lots of food for the journey (look at me making a packed lunch for the first time ever), on finding my cabin I was confronted by my Mongolian room mate asking me to pretend here bags were mine as she was over here baggage weight. I made it clear that how I did not mind putting here bags under my seat as I had room I was no way going to pretend they were mine at customs. After we had set off she gave some of here baggage to some other Mongolians in the next compartment. She came back in and we chatted about the deference in out cultures and at what age you are expected to be married by, and she gave me a cup of Mongolian tea which is tea with milk and salt!! I can only assume that someone was playing a trick on the Mongolians along time ago and they switched the salt and the sugar bowl.

    On the trains the Provodnista is in charge of keeping every one in check, the place clean, the heater stoked up with coal and making sure you are awake up in time for your stop also plays here music over the Tony system, you can turn it off in your cabin but someone next door had theirs turned up full blast, the first night we were subject to what appeared to be the full Mamma Mia sound track in Russian and the second day a mix of Russian pop and hip hop.

    We arrived at the Russian border town of Naushki at 13:00 which is when I started to understand why 700 miles would take so long. My Mongolian cabin mate enplaned that we would now sit at the station unlit customs arrived at 17:00. Passport control arrived at 16:30 and we were stamped out of Russia and customs arrived at 17:00, we eventually got moving at 18:00. After the short crossing into Mongolia we stoped at the Mongolian border town of Sukhbaatar where we went through the same process and then had to sit on the train until we were linked up to the 21:20 train to UB. The whole process tool a little over 8 hours. On arrival at Sukhbaatar all the Mongolians got off the train as apparently it is cheaper to buy a new ticket for the same train here, leaving only the unknowing Brits, Australians and Danes on the train.
    We arrived in UB at just after 6am and I was grateful that my guest house had a free station pick up service.

    So far along the way I keep bumping in to the same people, not surprising as there are only so many hostels along the route; but today I met a girl from the year below me at school!!! Talk about a small world. All together now “it’s a small word after all, it’s a small world after all, it’s a small, small world…”

    P.S. My new phone dose not work here so please use my old number until I leave Mongolia.

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